Buch lesen: «The New English Table: 200 Recipes from the Queen of Thrifty, Inventive Cooking»
Copyright
Fourth Estate
An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers Ltd.
1 London Bridge Street
London SE1 9GF
First published in Great Britain in 2008
Text copyright © Rose Prince 2008
Photographs copyright © Laura Hynd 2008
The right of Rose Prince to be identified as the author of this work and the right of Laura Hynd to be identified as the photographer of this work have been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
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Source ISBN: 9780007250943
Ebook Edition © JULY 2017 ISBN: 9780007522736
Version: 2017-08-08
From the reviews of The New English Table:
‘The cook book of the season is The New English Table by Rose Prince, a food writer peerless for her knowledge, passion and practicality. The inventiveness of this bulging culinary treasury is balanced by reassurance.’
Independent
‘Rose manages to turn traditional and unfamiliar ingredients into something special – but without the angst. We love how she recycles leftovers in ingenious ways to make really good food go further. Even nervous cooks will be won over!’
SHE
‘Quintessentially English and pretty, this collection is set to expand your knowledge of new ingredients and ways to use them.’
Sainsbury’s Magazine
‘The emphasis here is on food that tastes fantastic but doesn’t cost the earth – good news in these belt-tightening times.’
Good Housekeeping
‘A proper kitchen book, made to spend time on the kitchen table. A book that chimes with the ‘new austerity’ ethos of buying wisely and making it last.’
Time Out
‘If ever a book was perfectly timed, this is it. Just as we’ve begun to value good-quality food, along comes the promise of a recession. In this heavyweight food bible featuring 200 recipes, Rose Prince explores affordable and easy-to-cook food, and proves that good eating doesn’t have to cost the earth.’
Woman & Home
‘A beacon of talent and intelligence, Prince has generated a devoted and appreciative following … writing in a tone that is all her own, her recipes are moral, healthy, economical and (in case this sounds too uplifting for words) extremely tasty.’
Independent on Sunday
‘What is new about the recipes is the way [Rose Prince] takes traditional English foods and uses them with a twist … this book is the antidote to officious nutritionists and State nannies. It’s a call to treat food with love and reverence rather than guilt.’
Country Life
‘No one bears Mrs Beeton’s mantle better.’
The Economist
‘Making the most of British ingredients has always been at the heart of food writer Rose Prince’s recipes.’
BBC Olive
Dedication
In memory of
Mary Goloubeff Kapnist and her white farmhouse
Epigraph
A man dies and is buried, and all his words and actions areforgotten, but the food he has eaten lives after him in the soundor rotten bones of his children.
George Orwell, The Road to Wigan Pier (1937)
Contents
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Praise
Dedication
Epigraph
Introduction
List for All Recipes
Apples
Asparagus
Bacon
Barley
Beans
Beef
Blackcurrants
Broccoli
Buckwheat
Buffalo Milk
Cauliflower
Glorious Rehash – a New Generation of Leftovers
Celery
Cheese
Chestnuts
Chicken
Chickpeas
Chicory
Cobnuts
Cocoa
Courgettes
Crab
Crayfish
Cucumber
Damsons
Eggs
Elderflower
Faggots
Figs
Goose
Gooseberries
The Local Table
Grouse
Gurnard
Haddock
Ham and Gammon
Honey
John Dory
Lamb and Mutton
Langoustines
Lemons
Lentils
Mackerel
Megrim Soles
Mushrooms
Oats
Olive Oil
The Lost Kitchen
Ox Tongue
Oysters
Partridges
Peas
Pheasant
Pistachio Nuts
Pomegranates
Pork
Potatoes
Prawns and Shrimps
Quince
Rabbit
Radishes
Rice – Short Grain
Rice – Long Grain
Roots
Roses
Runner Beans
Sardines
Sausages
Scallops
Squash and Pumpkin
Sweetbreads
Tea
Tomatoes
Trotters and Knuckles
Rhythms of Dinner and a Time to Eat Soup
Turkey
Veal
Watercress
Wheat
Wild Salmon
Woodpigeon
Bibliography and Sources
Index
Acknowledgements
About the Author
About the Publisher
Introduction
My one table is two tables. Mostly it is an everyday table, a busy junction where plates arrive and leave, sometimes in a hurry, sometimes late. But they leave empty, I hope. Food for every day might be an economical bean and herb soup; juicy threads of braised ham hock beside a pile of buttery potato, or something good rehashed from something left over. But every now and then we sit at the ‘other’ table, for a weekend lunch or dinner, supper with others or a seasonal feast. Then we eat dishes cooked with ingredients that are more luxurious and precious: a whole baked Cornish fish, or roast game birds; a dish of new-season asparagus and pea shoots; a creamy pudding piled with summer berries and decorated with flowers.
It is a rhythm of eating that I enjoy. I have been good, so I can be bad; some meals are tempered, so others can be rich. It rejuvenates the old concept of ‘fast and feast’ and has become quite natural. But oscillating between those dishes of leftovers, cheap cuts and humble raw materials on the one hand and richer meals based on more valuable ingredients on the other is not just a feel-good diet; it forms part of a solution to a wider predicament.
There is a strong bond between good human health and the health of the environment. What you choose to eat has both an intrinsic and an ecological impact. If, in place of eating fillets of chicken, you decide to cook a whole chicken, eat the meat, then make an ambrosial broth from the bones to use in a creamy soup scented with tarragon, you can afford to buy a traditionally reared bird that has been fed on natural forage. Feeding chickens grass rather than cereals not only saves considerable quantities of fossil fuel (used in fertiliser and processing) but also benefits you: grass-fed livestock have a higher proportion of essential fatty acids in their meat, which are good for heart health and help guard against becoming overweight. There is also the diversity factor in this equation. As well as reducing uneconomic waste, recycling food left over from other meals encourages the use of many more appetising ingredients, such as herbs, salad vegetables and pulses. Growing a greater variety of crops and so eating a more diverse diet is again a plus for both people and planet. The meals on our table form part of a cycle that can, collectively, make a positive difference.
Currently, the main challenges and threats we face are food related. ‘Peak oil’ – the point after which demand for fossil fuels outstrips supply – has pushed food prices up, and inflation on some foods is now as high as 20 per cent. Rising levels of obesity are costing the National Health Service an estimated £1 billion per year; in children the obesity epidemic is especially tragic and poignant. But in our own warm kitchens, we can go some way to addressing issues that the authorities seem uninspired, or politically afraid, to deal with.
The problem of methane-emitting food waste and higher prices can be tackled by turning, say, some surplus cooked beef into a rich braise, enlivened with puréed tomatoes, red wine, garlic and thin shreds of wild fungi, to eat with buttered pasta ribbons.
One answer to the peak oil question lies in an earthily delicious dish of home-grown purple sprouting broccoli and tender green lentils, both of which are crops with a low environmental impact.
Given the known benefits of eating a more diverse menu than red meat, white bread and King Edwards potatoes, poor diet can be addressed by exploring a wider variety of foods, trying new types of grain, sprouted seeds and leafy green vegetables. We can do good by choosing from battalions of pretty squashes, rare potato and apple breeds, less familiar seafood and game birds – even edible flowers. If any of the above were medicine, it would taste of honey and lemon.
But what to put on the table … what is English, or British? A peculiar aspect of our progress over centuries, during which artists have created works of genius and scientists have developed life-saving cures, is that the English larder has become culturally primitive. Once we were imaginative and knowledgeable about the art of food, and more democratic in the share of it. Now, the majority paint by numbers in crude colours.
So this is a book of ingredients: how and when to buy them, all the many things that can be made with them and, in many cases, how to use up what is left. There is an economic divide between the foods listed. Some are obvious candidates for an occasional feast, others plainly everyday items. Some fall between the two – they can be cheaper to buy in a glut moment, or depending on where you live. Many are recognisably home grown – beef, Cheddar, wheat and watercress, for example. Some are produced here but are underexploited – sardines, sweetbreads, barley and rabbit. Others could be grown here commercially but are not – buckwheat, lentils, quince and chestnuts. Others cannot be produced here but are non-controversial imports embedded in our history – olive oil, tea, lemons and rice. All these foods belong here, or were English once. Have confidence. There’s no need always to look to the Mediterranean for something good.
With your new knowledge and ideas, choose when is right to eat what. Try new things. Add herbs, leaves, flowers and spices to the kaleidoscope and suddenly the English table has food on its plates that is interesting, pretty, honest and so good to eat. Choosing to cook and not waste a diverse range of foods, in a rhythm that is economical and healthy in every sense, will become the essence of a New English Table.
List of All Recipes
Apples
Apple Soup
Apple, Red Cabbage and Watercress Salad
Hot Apple Juice
Russet Jelly Ice
Asparagus
Asparagus with Pea Shoots and Mint
Boiled or Steamed Asparagus
Bacon
Bacon and Shellfish
Bacon and Potatoes
Bacon Gravy for Sausages
Light Bacon Stew
Bacon and Apples
Bacon and Potato Salad with Green Celery Leaf and Cider Vinegar
Barley
Barley Cooked as for Risotto
Pot Barley and Lamb Broth
Pearl Barley with Turmeric, Lemon and Black Cardamom
Barley Water (the Queen’s Recipe)
Spiced Barley with Leeks, Root Vegetables, Oregano, Nutmeg, Allspice and Butter
Barley in Breadcrumbs
Beans
Bean Sprout and Herb Soup
Baked Beans with Bacon, Molasses and Tomato
Pinto Beans and Venison
White Bean Broth with Buttered Tomato and Lettuce
Bean and Herb Salads
Quick Braised Butterbeans
Beef
Grilled Goose Skirt with Salad Leaves and Berkswell Cheese
Top of the Rump with Lemon and Parsley Butter
Flank with Tarragon Butter Sauce
Braised Shin of Beef with Ale
Cold Salt Beef and Green Sauce
Roast Rare Aged Beef Sirloin with a Mustard and Watercress Sauce
Raw Beef with Horseradish, Sorrel and Rye Bread
Beef with Horseradish Sauce on Crisp Bread
Beef with Pumpkin Seeds and Carrot
Sauce for Pasta
Braised Beef and Fungi
Beef Stock
Dripping
Blackcurrants
Blackcurrant Tarts
Venison Marinated in Blackcurrants
Redcurrant Cake
Broccoli
Purple Sprouting Broccoli with Little Brown Lentils
Creamed Broccoli Soup
Romanesco Salad
Buckwheat
Kasha Salad
Buckwheat Pancakes
Herrings in Buckwheat Groats
Buffalo Milk
Buffalo Milk Yoghurt with Lavender Honey and Pear Salad
Cauliflower
Cauliflower with Lancashire Cheese
Crisped Cauliflower with Breadcrumbs and Garlic
Cauliflower Soup
Glorious Rehash – a New Generation of Leftovers
Celery
Green Celery, Crayfish and Potato Salad
Celery Soup
Celery Stock
Cheese
Melted Cheese and Ale, to Eat with Bread
Pasta with Ricotta and Woody Herbs
Beetroot, Red Cabbage and Goafs Cheese Salad
Stinking Bishop Tart
Fried Fresh Goat’s Cheese with Apples, Victoria Plums and Orange Blossom Honey
Flowerpot Cheesecake Decorated with Flowers
Chestnuts
Hot Chestnut and Honey Soup
Potted Duck with Chestnuts
Chicken
Whole Poached Chicken, Leek and Bean Broth with Real Ale and Garlic Sauce
Dry-roast Chicken
Chicken Stock
Chicken Noodle Broth
Hot Chicken, Herb and Cream Soup
Cold Chicken, Mustard, Dill and Cucumber
Coconut Chicken
Chicken Curry with Fresh Tomato and Ginger
Chickpeas
Squash and Chickpea Soup with Single Gloucester Cheese
Sprouted Chickpea Hummus
Blue Cheese and Gram Flour Biscuits
Chicory
Creamed Chicory Soup with Pink Pepper, Parsley Oil and Soft-boiled Egg
Chicory and Goat’s Cheese Puff Pastry Pie
Braised Chicory with Butter and Lemon Juice
Cobnuts
Squirrel with Cobnuts and Walnuts
Pheasant Halves Stuffed with Cobnuts, Bread and Butter
Cobnut and Watercress Salad with Potato Bread
Cobnut Ice
Cocoa
Flourless Cocoa Cake
Courgettes
Courgettes with Garlic Butter
Courgette Shavings with Olive Oil, Lemon, Pistachio, Basil and Chives
Crab
Potted Crab
Crab Broth
Crab with Spelt
Crab and Mustard Omelette
Crayfish
Boiled Crayfish with Watercress and Egg Sauce
Crayfish-scented Broth with Trout and Rice
Cucumber
Hot Spiced Cucumber
Chilled Cucumber Soup with Mint, Yoghurt and Green Chilli
Proper Cucumber Sandwiches
Damsons
Damsons, Boiled Gingerbread and Lemon Cream
Damson Gin
Eggs
Eggs in Jelly with Tarragon
Poached Eggs with Rainbow Chard and Pink Pepper
Soft-boiled Eggs, Raw Vegetable Crudités, Mayonnaises (Basil, Nasturtium and Chilli)
Elderflower
Elderflower Fritters
Elderflower and Ginger Syllabub
Elderflower Syrup
Elderflower and Mead Marinade for Poultry
Faggots
Faggots and Watercress
Fried Faggots with Caper and Parsley Sauce
Figs
Breakfast Figs
Spiced Neck of Lamb with Figs
Baked Figs with Pear Purée
Goose
Roast Goose with Apples and Blackberry Jelly
Cold Goose and Wild Rice
Cold Goose and Cucumber
Goose Fat
Gooseberries
Gooseberry Sauce for Duck
Gooseberry Fool
The Local Table
Grouse
Roast Grouse
Grouse with Heather Honey Toast
Grouse Stock with Oat Groats and Bacon
Gurnard
Gurnard with Sweet and Sour Violet Aubergine and Celery
Fish Stock
Cockle, Potato and Garlic Hotpot
Haddock
Spiced Haddock Pasties
Baked Haddock Soup
Raw Haddock with Apples
Creamy Haddock Cakes
Ham and Gammon
Ham and Peas Dressed with Mayonnaise, Capers and Chives
Gammon and Lentil Broth
Honey
Greengage and Almond Tart with Honey Sauce
Honeycomb Cream with Hazelnut Meringue and Raspberries
John Dory
Spiced John Dory
Fried John Dory with Brown Butter, Parsley and Hazelnuts
Lamb and Mutton
Curried Lamb and Brown Lentil Broth
Lamb Braised with Thyme and Rosemary, Served with Egg Pasta
Skewered Spiced Mutton
Flatbreads
Barbecued Somerset Salt-marsh Mutton
Lamb Shoulder Steak with Broad Beans, Shallots and Mint
Lamb with Tomatoes and Garlic, Finished with Spring Vegetables
Leg of Mutton Slow-roasted with Woody Herbs, Butter and Hay
Shepherd’s Pie
Pistachio and Lamb Rice
Lamb stock
Langoustines
Langoustine Tartare with Hot Olive Oil
Langoustine Cocktail
Langoustine Stock
Langoustine Soup with Lemon Grass and Coconut
Lemons
Water Pudding
Leg of Hogget with Lemon
Lentils
A Lentil Store
Brown Lentils with Red Wine, Carrots and Thyme
Lentils and Rice
Mackerel
Grilled Mackerel
Cured Mackerel
Megrim Soles
Fried Megrim Sole
Mushrooms
Any-mushroom Soup
Mushroom Salad with Lemon, Parsley and Prawns
Mushrooms on Toast
Guinea Fowl Stuffed with Mushrooms, Groats and Herbs
Oats
Bircher Muesli
Haggis and Vegetables that are not Tatties and Neeps’
Oatcakes
Split Mealy Pudding, Scrambled Eggs and Cress
Olive Oil
Little Lemon and Olive Oil Cakes
Raisin, Currant and Sultana Pie in Olive Oil Pastry
Mayonnaise
The Lost Kitchen
Ox Tongue
Braised Tongue
Sandwiches
Hot Tongue with Potato Salad
Hash
Oysters
Grilled Oysters with Butter, Watercress, Celery and Aniseed
Partridges
Pot-roasted Partridges with Breadcrumbs
Partridge Legs
Partridge and Pears
Potted Partridge and Pistachio
Cold Partridge with Wood-roasted Peppers
Partridge Stock
Peas
Pea Stock
Pea Soup with Lettuce and Herbs
Pea and Wild Garlic Broth
Living Pea Salad with Mint
Pea Pies
Pheasant
Bacon-wrapped Pheasant
Stir-fried Pheasant with Ginger and Black Beans
Pheasant Stock
Cold Pheasant with Chickpeas, Pine Nuts, Aubergine and Mint
Pistachio Nuts
Pistachio Biscuits
Pistachio and Lamb Rice
Pomegranates
Fresh Pomegranate Jelly
Mutton Leg Chops with Ginger and Pomegranate Salsa
Pork
Roast Middle Loin of Pork
Roast Spare Rib of Pork Stuffed with Prunes
Warm Pork Sandwiches with Apple Sauce
Cold Pork with Anchovy and Caper Sauce
Potted Pork with Basil
Toast
Butter and Radishes
Leek Jam
Pickled Pears
Lettuce with Dressing
Cucumber Pickle
Pork Chump Chops Braised with Lentils, Cider and Cream
Raised Pork and Duck Pie
Braised Hand of Pork with Wine
Potatoes
Whipped Potatoes with Lancashire Cheese
Potato and Fresh Cheese in an Olive Oil Pastry Pie
Prawns and Shrimps
Prawn Salad with Raw Apple, Rhubarb and Walnut Oil
Pint of Shell-on Prawns with Scrumpy Butter
Shrimp (or Prawn) Shell Broth with Ale and Straw Mushrooms
Potted Shrimps with Egg Pasta
Prawn and Shrimp Stock
Mathias’s Prawn Curry with Coconut Tea’
Quince
Roast Quince
Rabbit
Potted Rabbit with Pork, Rosemary, Pink Pepper and Lemon
Radishes
Butter and Radishes
Radish and Horseradish Sauce
Rice – Short Grain
Tornato Rice
Rice – Long Grain
Spiced Rice with Cauliflower, Coconut, Cloves and Ginger
Brökens Pudding with Caramelised Pineapple
Roots
Roasted Mixed Root Vegetables
Raw Roots
Sweet Potato Stew with Crab, Coriander, Lime and Butter
Carrot Butter Sauce
Carrot Soup
Roses
Lamb with Rose and Almonds
Blancmange with Crystallised Rose Petals
Runner Beans
Runner Beans with Shallot, Mustard, Oil and Vinegar
Beans, Beans and Beans
Sardines
Grilled Sardines with Bread, Walnut and Chilli Sauce
Canned Pilchards with New Potatoes
Sausages
Sausage Meatballs and Farro Broth with Mustard
Wurst with Butterbeans, Tarragon, Leeks and Cream
Scallops
Scallops Baked in Their Shells with Mace
Squash and Pumpkin
Baked Gem Squash
Pumpkin Soup
Sweetbreads
Lamb Sweetbreads Wrapped in Ham with Peas and Lovage
Tea
Tea-soaked Fruitcake
Lemon Lapsang Souchong Jelly
Tomatoes
A Cooked Tomato Store
Tomato and Spelt Soup
Chilled Tomato, Lime, Basil and Lemon Grass Soup
Skinned Tomato and Dandelion Salad
Trotters and Knuckles
Spelt Groats, Knuckle of Pork and Herbs
Pig’s Trotter, Woodpigeon and Wheat Soup with Cobnut and Watercress Sauce
Rhythms of Dinner and a Time to Eat Soup
Turkey
Roast Turkey with Dried Cherry, Apple and Cornbread Stuffing and Duck and Chestnut Forcemeat
Turkey Legs Stuffed with Nettles and Garlic
Using Turkey Stock
Using Cold Turkey
Veal
Baked Short Pasta with Veal Meatballs and Green Ricotta
Stuffed Breast of Veal
Watercress
Watercress Soup
Watercress and Radish Sauce for Pasta
Wheat
Bread Soups
Wild Yeast Bread
Thin Breads
Three-minute Spelt Bread
‘Saffron’ Buns
Airy Buns
Berkswell Cheese Scones
Farro with Potatoes and Basil Oil
Spelt and Lentil Salad with Lots of Parsley
Wild Salmon
Poached Wild Salmon
Wild Salmon and Halibut Cured and Served in Soy, Lime and Garlic Broth
Woodpigeon
Pigeon Breasts with Buttered Shrimps
Potted Pigeon Salad with Celery and Mustard Dressing
Pigeon Rice with Figs and Whole Wheat
