The Magician's Glass

'How much risk is worth taking for so beautiful a prize?'The Magician's Glass by award-winning writer

Ed Douglas is a collection of eight recent essays on some of the biggest stories and best-known personalities in the world of climbing.In the title essay, he writes about failure on

Annapurna III in 1981, one of the boldest attempts in Himalayan mountaineering on one of the most beautiful lines – a line that remains unclimbed to this day.Douglas writes about bitter controversies, like that surrounding

Ueli Steck's disputed solo ascent of of the south face of Annapurna, the fate of

Toni Egger on

Cerro Torre in 1959 – when

Cesare Maestri claimed the pair had made the first ascent, and the rise and fall of Slovenian ace

Tomaz Humar. There are profiles of two stars of the 1980s: the much-loved German

Kurt Albert, the father of the 'redpoint', and the enigmatic rock star

Patrick Edlinger, a national hero in his native France who lost his way.In Crazy Wisdom, Douglas offers fresh perspectives on the impact mountaineering has on local communities and the role climbers play in the developing world. The final essay explores the relationship between art and alpinism as a way of understanding why it is that people climb mountains.