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Contents

1 THE TOUR DE FRANCE ITS MEN AND ITS MOUNTAINS

2 THE MOUNTAINS OF THE TOUR DE FRANCE HOW TO RIDE THEM

3 EASTERN PYRENEES

4 WESTERN PYRENEES

5 VOSGES AND JURA

6 MASSIF CENTRAL

7 NORTHERN ALPS

8 CENTRAL ALPS

9 SOUTHERN ALPS

LIST OF SEARCHABLE TERMS

PICTURE CREDITS AND KEY

COPYRIGHT

ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

© Universal/TempSport/Corbis

The Tour de France

The Tour de France is the biggest annual sporting event in the world. For three weeks it has priority over a nation’s roads. As long ago as the 1960s a French writer said that President De Gaulle might run the country for eleven months but in July, France was ruled by the Tour.

A social scientist could probably come up with a clever reason why a bike race has captured the hearts of a nation. But I think that one reason could be the setting. France is a beautiful country, and any sporting event run off against a backdrop of stunning scenery is onto a winner for a start.

Another reason could be that July is holiday time in France. People associate the Tour with being away from the every day, being free and having fun. To realise how true this is, you only have to visit any village when the Tour passes by. On a flat stage the riders stream past in seconds, but in each village an all-day party will be held.

Then there are the riders themselves. The Tour de France is hard, maybe the hardest sporting event in the world. There are flat days of super fast racing, a painful crash in the tight pack of 200 riders is only a moment’s inattention away. In contrast the mountains split up the race, with every rider having to fight on his own battle against nature.

The race forges heroes, it creates colourful characters. Hard workers who people identify with. You don’t fluke the Tour de France. Just finishing is a triumph, and winning places a man in the pantheon of champions. The race has its faults. Some riders want to win too much and have cheated. But the Tour de France is fighting that, and the race has somehow become nobler because of it.

The Tour de France
‘ITS MEN AND ITS MOUNTAINS’

The Tour de France is a stretch of anyone’s imagination. It is the biggest annual sporting event in the world; 15 million spectators line the road to watch it pass by, while many more sit glued to a thousand hours of television beamed during its three weeks to all four corners of the world. The Tour is long and gruelling, its course is spectacular, its infrastructure huge. And mountain climbs have been part of the Tour de France almost since it began.

The race was born out of a turn of the twentieth century battle to increase newspaper circulation. Count de Dion was the fiery tempered owner of a magazine called Le Velo, but when its editor criticised De Dion’s stance over the Dreyfuss Affair, a case that rocked France where a Jewish army officer was wrongly accused of spying, he withdrew his cash and set up a new magazine that he called L’Auto.

Bicycle racing had been going in France since 1867, encouraged by manufacturers who set up works teams to compete in long races that were the perfect stage on which to demonstrate the durability of their machines. Something about the struggle that competitors had with the elements, and the speed with which they ate kilometre after kilometre of dreadful roads, struck a chord with French people, and the sport became hugely popular.

It’s no surprise then that the editor of a new sports magazine should turn to bike racing as a way of boosting his sales figures. And even less of a surprise given that the editor of L’Auto, Henri Desgrange, had been a professional racer in his youth.

However, although he is known as the ‘Father of the Tour’, it wasn’t Desgrange who first thought up the Tour de France. That was L’Auto’s chief cycling reporter, Geo Lefevre who had the mad idea of a bike race around the whole of France, and at first Desgrange was reluctant.

There were a lot of long races already in existence. ‘Paris–Brest–Paris’ for example, a trip of well over 1000 kilometres in one go from the French capital to the tip of the Breton peninsula and back again. But this? The race Lefevre was planning was 2500 kilometres long and would take its competitors to all six corners of France. As well as a sporting challenge it was a going to be a logistics nightmare.

The race takes shape

But the more Desgrange thought about it, the more he liked it. Split the distance down into stages, and soon the race began to seem possible. So, on 1st July 1903, at the Café du Réveil du Matin in the village of Montgeron, which is now a suburb of Paris, the Tour de France was born.

Sixty men, some of them full-time professionals but most self-financed amateurs, lined up to ride the first stage of 467 kilometres from Paris to Lyon. Strong of arm and leg, sound of body, men with tough minds and even tougher handlebar moustaches, these modern-day knights of the road pedalled their heavy machines into history.

The Eagle of Toledo, Frederico Bahamontes © Universal/TempSport/Corbis

A Parisian chimney sweep called Maurice Garin won the first Tour de France. It was 2428 kilometres long and split into six stages. Paris to Lyon, Lyon to Marseille, Marseille to Toulouse then on to Bordeaux, Nantes and back to Paris. Garin’s prize was 6125 gold francs, and his victory margin over second place Louis Pothier was getting on for three hours. Interest in the race was huge, France had fallen for the Tour

The race has changed a lot since 1903, but its basic template was laid down in that first edition. No matter how many stages there are, or how many a rider wins, the Tour de France winner is the man who completes the whole route in the least time. So it’s possible to win the race without winning a single stage. And it’s been done, although not very often. The only thing that was missing from the first event really was the mountains. But once the organisers saw that racing around France was possible, they decided to make it harder. And to do that they headed for the hills.

Going into the mountains

France has four mountain areas; in order of increasing height, the Vosges, the Massif Central, the huge peaks of the Pyrenees and the giant Alps. To see how cyclists would fare in them, the organisers decided to include a stage through the Vosges in the 1905 race, and to visit the very edge of the Alps.

They had climbed the Col de la Republique during the first Tour, but that is a pass over the low shoulder of a mountain range, and there was no way around it. Now though, the riders would take on a real mountain, virtually crossing its summit, and its name was the Ballon d’Alsace.

© Universal/TempSport/Corbis

In his editorial before the race, Desgrange predicted that no competitor would be able to ride all the way to the top. They would have to dismount and walk for at least part of it, he thought. But Ren Pottier proved him wrong. He was the only one to do it, but Pottier pedalled all the way to the top. He even overtook Desgrange, who was sitting in the lead motor vehicle at the head of the race.

The effort he made destroyed Pottier’s chances. He was caught by other more prudent riders on the descent and later forced to retire from the stage through exhaustion. But as the riders pedalled on to the stage finish in Besancon, right on the edge of the Jura, Pottier had made a point to Desgrange

On the next but one stage the race climbed the Col Bayard, while travelling from the Alpine gateway city of Grenoble to Toulon on the Mediterranean coast. Everyone wanted to know if the riders would beat the stage coach that went over the climb from Grenoble and south to Gap. The coach was drawn by six horses on the flat and ten on the climbs, but the riders beat it by hours, and then carried on to Toulon.

Before the first Tour de France the daily circulation of L’Auto was 140,000. By 1910 the race had grabbed people’s interest to the point where Desgrange was selling 300,000 copies a day. But he wasn’t satisfied with that. The mountains were a big success. The pedalling heroes could conquer them, so in 1910 the Father of the Tour planned an epic stage, a stage to top all others, a stage that would capture the imaginations of everyone in France.

It was 326 kilometres long, it ran east to west from Luchon to Bayonne and crossed some of the most famous mountain passes in the Pyrenees; the Col de Peyresourde, Col d’Aspin, Col du Tourmalet and Col d’Aubisque. Almost no one had climbed these passes on a bike, and certainly no one had climbed one after the other on a single ride. In 1910 there were passes used by mountain people to get from one valley to the next, and often they were not much more than rutted tracks.

© Universal/TempSport/Corbis

It was a big adventure, and one guaranteed to make L’Auto the number one sports publication in France, but the thought of the challenge that lay ahead of the riders filled Desgrange and his staff with dread. Desgrange wasn’t any more at ease when he drove to the top of the Peyresourde to see the riders on the first climb.

He had an anxious wait. It was the first time that Desgrange had seen the climb. All he had to go on before were reports from his staff, who had visited the Pyrenees to see if the stage was possible. He learned that morning that there had been reports of bear attacks in the area. The news didn’t make him feel any better while he waited

Then he saw a dishevelled figure trudging towards him pushing a bike. It was a Tour de France rider, but Desgrange couldn’t identify him as he was covered in mud and he refused to speak to the race organiser. The next rider was easy to identify, and had a little more to say. He was Octave Lapize, a great rider and one of the favourites to win the 1910 Tour. Desgrange asked him what had happened to the others, but Lapize looked straight through him and spat out a single word: “Murderer!”

Desgrange loved that. He once said that his perfect Tour de France would have only one finisher, one hero who had battled through it all to the end. Lapize won the first Pyrenean stage at an average speed of 23 kph, and over 40 riders managed to haul themselves over the mountains, the last three admittedly over seven hours behind the winner. Every rider hated Desgrange, but no one had died. His race was now the most important and most popular sporting event in France. The mountains would be part of it for ever.

The yellow jersey

The First World War called a halt to the Tour shortly after the 1914 race, but as soon as was humanly possible, Desgrange and the Tour were back again. In 1919 the riders raced across the bombed-out battle fields of northern France, a symbol of hope in a grey rubble-strewn wasteland.

But the colour of the 1919 Tour de France was yellow. Desgrange always looked for ways to improve his race. One criticism he’d heard was that spectators could never tell which of the riders was the overall race leader when they pedalled by, so Desgrange decided that the Tour leader should wear a distinctive jersey. The legend goes that yellow was chosen because it was the colour of L’Auto’s pages. However, it is also said that yellow was the only colour left in suitable numbers when Desgrange needed the jerseys in a hurry.

© Luc Claessen

The Tour grew into the number one international cycling event between the two World Wars. Cycle road racing was very a popular sport in many European countries and in 1909 the Tour had its first foreign winner, Francois Faber of Luxembourg. The Tour of Italy was born in the same year. Odile Defraye of Belgium won the 1912 Tour de France, and his countrymen followed him to victory in the next six editions of the race.

Ottavio Bottechia was the first Italian to win in 1924, and he did it again in 1925. Then in 1949 the Tour de France was won by cycling’s first really big international superstar, a compatriot of Bottechia’s, Fausto Coppi. Coppi could win every kind of race, he was a superb athlete, but he was more than a cyclist.

Media stars

The media had grown by 1949. Fans could read about Coppi, and they could see films of him racing, as well as watch by the roadside. He had more coverage than any other cyclist before him. This made Coppi a celebrity, and a controversial celebrity at that.

Coppi earned more money than any other cyclist had before him, and money gave him a lifestyle to be envied, but it was also one that fascinated his fans. He fell in love with the beautiful wife of his doctor. He left his own wife to live with her. They had a son, and Coppi was excommunicated from the Catholic church.

Coppi won the Tour de France again in 1952, before Frenchman Louison Bobet became the first man to win the race three times in a row. Bobet was another rider who made a lot of money from cycling, so much that he often piloted his own aircraft to races. Cycling had come of age, its top riders were wealthy men, and even though it was, and still is, a brutal struggle to succeed, professional cycling now carried with it a gloss of glamour.

In the 1960s the sport was dominated by Jacques Anquetil, a Frenchman, who from humble beginnings as a strawberry grower’s son in Normandy became the first five-time winner of the Tour, the first French winner of the Tour of Italy, and when he won the Tour of Spain, which had started up in 1935, Anquetil was the first cyclist ever to win all three major stage races during his career.

New management

The Tour de France saw a change of direction after the Second World War. When the race started up again in 1947, Henri Desgrange had fallen ill and his place was taken by Jacques Goddet, the son of L’Auto’s first company accountant. Goddet was a well-educated man who had spent part of his youth in England, and who spoke several languages.

L’Auto was shut down by the allies when they liberated Paris in 1945, but Goddet just upped sticks and set up a new newspaper across the road. He called it L’Equipe, and today it is one of the biggest and best-known daily sports newspapers in the world.

Goddet took the Tour de France with him, and L’Equipe owned the race until they sold it to the Amaury Sport Organisation in the mid-1980s. Amaury are still the company behind the Tour de France, and the whole thing, along with a number of other international bike races and other sporting events, is run from a modern office block in the Paris suburb of Issy-les-Molineux.

The Tour prospered under Goddet. He was quite modern, even though he didn’t look it, especially when the race was in the hot south of France when Goddet used to wear his tropical gear of pith helmet, shorts, long socks and a Safari shirt. Goddet also had a shrewd assistant called Felix Levitan, who looked after the commercial side of the race. Between them they ruled with a rod of iron, and despite there being official referees and judges on the race, Goddet and Levitan’s word on anything was final.

Going global

An Australian team raced in the Tour de France way back in 1928, but up until the mid-1950s Tour competitors were almost exclusively from mainland Europe. Then a British team, sponsored by a bike manufacturer called Hercules, raced in the 1955 event. Only two of their riders, Brian Robinson and Tony Hoar, finished, but Robinson graduated into mainstream European pro racing and won stages in the 1958 and 1959 Tours.

More Britons followed Robinson. Tom Simpson wore the leader’s Yellow Jersey in 1962, and Barry Hoban won eight Tour stages during his long pro career. Robert Millar then became the Britain’s most successful Tour de France rider when he finished fourth overall and won the King of the Mountains competition in 1984.

While this was going on Australians, Irish, Americans and Canadians continued to swell the English-speaking presence on the race. Other nations joined in too, most notably the Colombians and Scandinavians began to write themselves into Tour history. The Tour de France was going global.

Its fame and appeal exploded in 1986 when an American Greg Lemond won the Tour. His victory was followed by Stephen Roche from Ireland in 1987. New interest in the race from all over the world meant a flood of new sponsors. Major names like Coca Cola wanted a piece of the Tour. An American, Lance Armstrong set a record in 2005 with seven consecutive victories in the Tour, and a Frenchman hasn’t won since 1985.

Twenty-first century Tour

Today the Tour de France is huge. London paid £1.5 million to host the start of the race in 2007, but got far more than that back from the visitors who came to watch. The prize list for the race totals €3 million, with €400,000 euros going to the winner. Not that he sees any of it. Traditionally he splits it among his team, because the winner of the Tour de France automatically becomes the highest earner in the sport. Lance Armstrong is reputed to have earned $17 million in product endorsements alone during 2005.

The Tour de France has its own motorcycle police force and a travelling bank, the only one allowed by law to open on the nation’s Bastille Day holiday. Each year there are 2300 accredited journalists on the race, 1100 technicians and chauffeurs, many of them ex-competitors who drive race officials and guests on the race. On top of that 1500 vehicles accompany the riders on the road in the form of a publicity cavalcade that companies pay dearly to be part of. Another 4500 support staff work on the Tour, either in race routing, hospitality or assembling and taking down the temporary Tour village that goes from town to town between the stages.

At the heart of all this activity are the riders. As many as 200 of the world’s best pro road racers start the Tour, although every year there are a good few that don’t make it through to the finish. Like the race, the riders’ personal statistics are prodigious. For example, it’s reckoned that a competitor will burn around 123,000 calories if he gets through to the end of the race. He will make getting on for 500,000 pedal revolutions, wear out three bicycle chains, and every year the whole field gets through 700 ultra-light racing tyres.

How it works

The Tour de France is big, and it’s getting bigger with a prosperous and exciting future ahead of it, but it is a race that is firmly rooted in tradition. It has always been what in cycling is called a stage race. That is a race decided on total time to complete the whole course, but with the course broken up into individual stages. The rider who completes the whole course in the least time is the overall winner, and at any given point after the first stage the race has an overall leader who wears the yellow jersey.

Most of the stages are straightforward races. They are referred to as road stages, where all the riders start together and the first over the line wins the stage. A few stages are time trials; riders start individually at intervals and the one who covers the course on his own in the fastest time wins the stage. Team time trails work on the same principle, but the individual teams complete the course together and their times are added to each team member’s overall time for the race.

The Alpe d’Huez all-day Tour party © Luc Claessen

Soon after the first editions were run, the Tour de France settled into a pattern that is preserved today. It usually occupies the first three weeks of July, which covers the time that French people traditionally take their summer holidays. Since 1967 it has started with a short prologue time trial, which provides some order for the first few stages. The prologue winner wears the yellow jersey on the first road stage.

Most years see the first few stages run off over flat to undulating countryside, giving riders who don’t shine in the mountains the chance for some glory. A longish time trial comes after this first phase, and then the mountains. To win the Tour de France a rider must be good at the time trials, but he must also excel in the mountains. He certainly can’t be a specialist in one to the exclusion of the other, although many Tour winners have leant towards one or other speciality.

Since they were first visited, the Alps and Pyrenees have been included in every race and the Tour tries to visit the Vosges and Massif Central whenever it can. The race always finishes in Paris, and the others stage towns and cities are decided by geography and by the various municipalities pitching to be hosts. Many places, including towns and cities in neighbouring countries, want to be visited by the Tour. Each year the organisers have a notional idea of where they would like to go, what climbs they would like to include, then they look at who wants the race and come up with a route.

The first long time trial and the first day in the mountains are when the Tour de France begins to take shape each year. The riders and pundits say that while you cannot tell who will win in Paris after the first mountain stage, you can always tell who will not. A number of favourites invariably fall out of the running on this crucial day.