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Fifty Years In The Northwest

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ST. LOUIS COUNTY

St. Louis county takes its name from St. Louis river, the river itself having been named by some of the early French travelers or Jesuit missionaries, possibly by Duluth or Buade.

The county is bounded on the north by Rainy lake and the British boundary, on the east by Lake county, on the south by Lake Superior, St. Louis river and Carlton, and on the west by Aitkin county. The surface is variegated, much of it being broken with deep ravines. It is well watered by streams tributary to Rainy lake and Superior, and by innumerable small lakes. Portions of it are heavily timbered with pines and hardwoods, and the northern portion is traversed by a rich mineral belt extending through the Vermillion Lake region. The settlements are chiefly along the shores of Lake Superior and St. Louis river, and on the shores of Vermillion lake. The falls and rapids of St. Louis river are noted for their wildness and grandeur.

The scenery on its northern boundary, including the Dalles of the Rainy Lake waters, is not surpassed or even equaled at any point east of the Rocky mountains. The geological formation consists largely of primitive or igneous rocks, trappean, basaltic and granite, and the scenery has a peculiarly grand and sombre appearance. Notwithstanding the igneous character of the formation there is much excellent farming land on plains and intervales, while the more abrupt and rocky portions are rich in iron and the precious metals. The region about Vermillion lake has become a centre of mining operations. The region is rich in iron ores. Gold has also been discovered. A mineral region abounding in gold, silver and iron extends from Vermillion lake to Thunder Bay. St. Louis county was organized in 1856. The territorial governor appointed the following officers: Clerk of district court, J. B. Culver; sheriff, J. B. Ellis; register of deeds, R. H. Barrett; auditor, J. E. Brown.

The first board of county commissioners elected were C. E. Martin, Vose Palmer and Z. J. Brown. The first meeting was held at Portland, Jan. 4, 1858. At an adjourned meeting held Jan. 20, 1858, the commissioners drew a grand and petit jury. The meetings were held sometimes at Portland and sometimes at Duluth. At a meeting held April 5, 1858, the county was divided into four towns – Duluth, Martin, Carp River and Carlton. At an adjourned meeting three assessor's districts, six school districts and four road districts were formed. The records do not show any previous division into districts or precincts, nor does the name of any clerk appear until the meeting of September 14th, when A. B. Robbins attests as clerk. At a meeting held Sept. 23, 1858, the village of Oneota was established. November 1st E. H. Brown was appointed clerk in place of A. B. Robbins. November 14th a bill allowing R. H. Barrett compensation for services as clerk prior to September 1st was passed. His name does not appear prior to this entry.

The records show that a court was held in 1859, S. J. R. McMillan officiating as judge. Also that a road was made from Oneota to Buchanan and the mouth of Knife river, through Fremont, Portland and Endion, following a trail to Lester's river and across French river to Montezuma, and another from Oneota to Fond du Lac. The town of Milford is mentioned as accepting the report. The assessment for St. Louis county for 1859 amounted to $96,836.76. At a special meeting of the county commissioners held Jan. 10, 1866, a resolution was adopted asking the legislature to grant authority to St. Louis county to issue $150,000 to aid in building the Lake Superior & Mississippi railroad. The legislature granted the request and twenty year bonds were issued.

We append a list of county commissioners to the year 1863: E. C. Martin, Vose Palmer, Zach T. Brown, 1858; E. C. Martin, Vose Palmer, W. E. Wright, 1859; W. E. Wright, S. A. Forbes, Sidney Luce, 1860; E. F. Ely, Joseph B. Culver (first meeting), 1861; E. F. Ely, Harvey Fargo, Levi B. Coffrey (second meeting), 1861; E. F. Ely, R. B. Carlton, H. Fargo, 1862; H. Fargo, R. B. Carlton, E. G. Swanstrom, 1863.

Names of villages that appear in the old records of the board have entirely disappeared. Those villages nearest to Duluth have been absorbed by that vigorous young city. We find a record, bearing date 1859, authorizing an election to decide upon the question of the removal of the county seat from Duluth to Port Byron. There is no record of the result of the election, nor is Port Byron found in a recent map.

DULUTH

The site of Duluth was visited as long ago as 1659, by two adventurous Frenchmen, Grosselier and Redission. This was twenty-one years prior to the coming of Greyson Duluth, in whose honor the city of Duluth was named two hundred years later. Capt. Duluth visited the western end of the lake in 1680. Three or four years later Jean Duluth, a brother of the captain, established two trading posts, one at the mouth of Pigeon river, the other on Minnesota Point. Le Sueur followed in 1683, accompanied by a French surveyor, Franquelin, who made a fairly correct map of the region. The attraction to the early voyageurs was the rich furs to be obtained in the wild regions adjacent. The great American Fur Company early established posts along the northern shore of Lake Superior, and later the Astor Fur Company made its northwestern headquarters at Fond du Lac, a few miles above the present site of Duluth. Nothing was done toward permanent settlement until about the year 1854, when the tide of immigration set in toward the head of the lake, and it became evident that here was to rise cities of no mean importance, one upon the western shore of the lake, rising from the base of Minnesota Point, and the other Superior City, across the gleaming waters of St. Louis bay.

For several years the growth of Duluth was slow, and sometimes its fortunes seemed on the wane, but the construction of a railroad to St. Paul, completed in 1870, and a sudden influx of capital consequent upon this new outlet of trade, and more than all this, the proposed construction of the great Northern Pacific railroad, gave a new impetus to the growth of the city. The three years succeeding were years of great activity and progress. The population increased from 3,000 to 5,000, and many of the finer older buildings of the city were constructed. The canal was cut through Minnesota Point, thus giving to Duluth the most magnificent harbor on the lake, if not in the world.

In 1873 the failure of Jay Cooke, who had largely contributed the means for the construction of the Northern Pacific railroad, caused a financial depression similar in its effects to that of 1857. Banks failed, merchants became bankrupt, and the population of the city was reduced to 1,300 souls. The "hard times" lasted until some time in 1878, when the opening up of the great wheat fields in the Red River valley, and the completion of the Northern Pacific railroad, again brought prosperity to the more than half deserted city. The population increased in 1878 from 1,300 to 2,200 souls. Two years later the census showed 3,470; and a year later, 7,800. In 1882 the population had increased to 12,000; in 1883 to 14,000; in 1884 to 16,690; in 1885 to 18,036, and in 1886 to 26,000 souls.

Duluth has now a well organized board of trade, produce exchange and chamber of commerce. It has four banks, the American Exchange, Duluth National, Merchants National, and Bell & Eyster's. These banks had, in 1886, an aggregate capital of $300,000, with deposits of $2,034,281, amounts greatly increased during the year 1887. The taxable valuation of property in Duluth for the year 1886 was $11,773,720. The taxes paid in 1887 amount to $261,376.

Duluth has one immense flour mill, with a capacity of 250 barrels per day. It is five stories in height, and favorably situated; having the lake upon one side and the railroads upon the other, so that loading and unloading can be carried on at once from vessels and cars.

Duluth has also two large flour warehouses with a capacity of 200,000 barrels each. Large warehouses are also being built by the Northern Pacific and Omaha Railroad companies. The annual shipment of flour from Duluth has ranged from 164,000 barrels in 1871 to 1,500,000 in 1886, making an aggregate of 8,285,000 barrels in that time.

The lumber industry of Duluth is no small factor in the prosperity of the city. The cut of the Duluth district for the past season amounts to 160,000,000 feet of lumber, 43,000,000 shingles, and 22,600,000 lath, of which the city mills have manufactured one-third. Much of this lumber has been shipped to Chicago and the East, and a new district, the Tower mining region, has lately been opened for shipment.

We have alluded to the harbor of Duluth as one of the best on the lake. It consists of what is known as the Bay of Superior, a body of water about seven miles long by one mile in width, almost entirely shut off from the lake by a narrow strip of land known as Minnesota Point. The original entrance to this bay was through a channel on the southeast of the Point, separating it from Wisconsin Point, a similar tongue of land in the same line of direction. As this entrance was inconvenient and difficult, a canal was cut across the point near the mainland, sufficiently large to admit all vessels that pass through Ste. Marie's canal. Since the construction of the canal through Minnesota Point, the old landing in front of the city has been abandoned, and elevators have been built on the shores of the bay. These elevators are the best of their class, and have a total capacity of 20,000,000 bushels. They were ten in number, exclusive of several warehouses; two, however, have been destroyed by fire. The walls of the canal have been extended in the form of piers 1,000 feet into the lake. One of these piers is supplied with a lighthouse and a fog horn. The canal is 700 feet long and 250 feet in width. The arrivals and clearances for the port of Duluth in 1886 were 2,180.

 

The fish trade is no inconsiderable part of the industries of Duluth. Two large firms have their headquarters here and the amount of capital invested in the business amounts to $165,000. During 1886 1,200,000 pounds of fish were shipped to Duluth for reshipment to other places, from the various fisheries of these companies. The United States fish commissioners, realizing the value of Lake Superior as a reservoir for food fish, have projected the largest fish hatchery on the lakes, to be located at Lester's Park. It is to be under government and state control and will supply the lakes of Superior and Michigan with about 500,000,000 eggs yearly.

Duluth was organized and laid out as a village under the town site law of 1844; Richard Ralf, surveyor; Geo. E. Nettleton, J. B. Culver, O. W. Rice, Wm. Nettleton, and Robt. E. Jefferson, proprietors. The date of this organization is not known. We have a statement from Hon. W. G. Le Duc, of Hastings, to the effect, that in the winter of 1852-53, A. Ramsey, H. M. Rice, Maj. Watrous and himself, with two others whose names he can not recall, organized as a company and projected a town site at the west end of the lake, on the present site of Duluth. Maj. Watrous, the Indian agent, was instructed to take necessary measures to secure the land. Watrous failed to secure the property and the scheme failed. Mr. Le Duc projected and introduced a charter in the territorial legislature, which was passed, for a railroad to Duluth.

In 1870 the city of Duluth was first incorporated, and five years later a portion of the same territory was incorporated as the village of Duluth, and the two municipal corporations were still in existence Feb. 25, 1887, when the act imposing certain political obligations upon the then existing city of Duluth became a law. The second day of March another law went into effect incorporating both the city and village of Duluth as the present city.

FOND DU LAC,

Located at the head of navigation on St. Louis river, and at the foot of the rapids, is a point of considerable historical interest, it having long been in use as a trading post. It has been a place of outfit and departure for trading expeditions for two hundred years. The old stone trading house of the Astor Fur Company still remains. It is surrounded by about twenty buildings of more recent date. It is now better known as a station on the Northern Pacific railroad. It was surveyed in 1856 by Richard Ralf and platted into village lots. The plats were signed by James A. Markland, attorney for the proprietors. Fond du Lac is now a village of some magnitude.

ONEOTA

Was settled some time in the '40s, by Edmund F. Ely and others, and became a village of some note, containing a post office, church and other evidences of prosperity. It was platted as a village in 1856; H. W. Wheeler, surveyor; Marcus W. McCracken, Bion W. Bacon, Edmund F. Ely, proprietors. The first recorded deed in St. Louis county is a quitclaim deed from B. H. Baer to E. F. Ely, of the town site of Ely; consideration, $1,500. The deed bears date of April 20, 1856. Oneota is now included in the plat of Duluth.

CLIFTON

This village was platted in 1858, by John S. Watrous, on the shores of the lake north of Duluth. It is now within the Duluth city limits.

PORTLAND,

A village on the lake shore above Duluth, was platted in 1856. The proprietors were Aaron B. Robbins, James D. Ray, C. Marshall and J. J. Post. It is now within the Duluth city limits.

ENDION,

Located on the north shore, was surveyed Dec. 15, 1856, by Chas. Martin; M. 7P. Niel and others, proprietors. It is now within the Duluth city limits.

MIDDLETON,

Located on Minnesota Point, was surveyed Aug. 1, 1856; proprietors, Robert Reed, T. A. Markland.

MONTEZUMA,

Located on the north shore, was surveyed in May, 1856, by Vose Palmer; proprietor, Frederic Ottoman.

BUCHANAN,

Located on the north shore, was surveyed in October, 1856; proprietor, W. G. Cowell.

ST. LOUIS FALLS

Was surveyed in 1857, by C. E. Clark; Thos. H. Hogan, attorney for proprietors.

FREMONT ISLAND

A peculiar feature of St. Louis bay has been the formation of floating islands, possibly the result of the collection of driftwood and other debris at the mouth of St. Louis river. The rafts thus formed in time became consolidated by the deposition of earthy materials, leaves, twigs and vegetable matter, and are covered with a rank growth of vegetation, at first shrubby, but at last arboreous. The roots of the shrubs and trees interlace, and hold the material of the raft more tightly together. These island rafts are sometimes loosened and float into the bay, and are driven about by the winds from one side of the bay to the other.

One of these islands, supposed to be stationary, known as Fremont island, was surveyed and platted in 1856, by C. P. Heustis and Chas. A. Post. On the completion of the canal it broke loose from its moorings, floated away and disappeared, in all probability going to pieces in the rough waters of the lake.

TOWER,

Located on the southern shore of Vermillion lake, was surveyed Aug. 4, 1884. The proprietors are the Minnesota Iron Company, of which Charlemagne Tower is president. The iron mines located in this vicinity are amongst the richest on the continent. Attention was first called to the Vermillion by the reported discovery of gold. Machinery for crushing and smelting was transported thither, but the thousands who rushed to the reputed gold field expecting to become suddenly rich, returned disappointed and disheartened. Attention had long before been called to the fact that there were rich iron mines in the district, but the circumstances were unfavorable for their development. They were in a remote position and accessible only by a journey of several days through woods and swamps. These mines could be reached and developed only by state aid, which was given in the shape of a grant of swamp lands, to be applied to building a railway from the lake to the mines. This grant having been obtained, Mr. Tower and other capitalists at once invested their millions in the mines, purchasing some 8,000 acres of land, covering the larger portion of the iron deposits in the district, embracing the present site of the village of Tower. A railroad sixty-eight miles in length was constructed from Tower to Two Harbors, a point twenty-seven miles north of Duluth. This road was completed in the spring of 1884, and the first shipment was made July 3d of that year, the total shipments for the year being 62,124 tons. The shipments for 1885 were 225,484 tons, and for 1886, 304,000 tons. Over $3,000,000 was paid to laborers in the Tower mines in 1887.

Col. George E. Stone, of Duluth, is deserving of praise for his foresight and energy in opening the Tower mines. Mr. Stone labored with untiring zeal after the land grant to aid in building the road was given until the road was built and the mines opened.

George R. Stuntz is well known as the government surveyor of the Lake Superior region, whose work covers thousands of miles of North Wisconsin lands, lying along the southern shore of the lake, and who has accurately mapped the meanderings of the influent streams, the bays and shaggy projecting shores of the great "Unsalted Sea." There is no better topographical authority than Mr. Stuntz, and no one better posted as to the location and value of the Northern Wisconsin areas and the Vermillion mines.

Having early made Superior City and Duluth his home, and for nearly forty years having been identified with the interests of the West Superior country, he is an oft-quoted authority. Many of his published articles contain most valuable information concerning the feasibility of connecting St. Croix and Superior waters. His assertions concerning the mineral wealth of the lake country, made before the development of the mines, have since been verified. Mr. Stuntz is a typical, sensible frontiersman, of American birth, aged about seventy years.

Charles Hinman Graves, a native of Springfield, Massachusetts, born in 1839, received a liberal education, and in 1861 enlisted as a private in the Fortieth Massachusetts Volunteers, but was promoted step by step to the rank of lieutenant colonel. He was severely wounded at the battle of Gettysburg. In 1865 he was commissioned as a colonel in the regular army, but resigned in 1870, and located at Duluth. From 1873 to 1876 he was a member of the state senate. He has held several public positions in Duluth, and stands deservedly high as a citizen. He has labored zealously and efficiently for the prosperity of Duluth.

Ozro P. Stearns was born Jan. 13, 1831, at De Kalb, Lawrence county, New York. In his youth he was dependent upon his own resources. He graduated at Michigan University in 1858, after which he visited California, tried mining for a short time, and returning graduated in the law department of Michigan University. In 1860 he came to Rochester, Minnesota, and opened a law office. In 1862 he enlisted in Company F, Ninth Minnesota Volunteers, of which he was commissioned first lieutenant, but in 1864 was promoted to the colonelcy of the Thirty-ninth United States Infantry (colored). He served through many battles and campaigns, and was mustered out at the close of the war. In January, 1866, he returned to Rochester; in 1867 was appointed register in bankruptcy for Southern Minnesota; in January, 1871, he was elected to the United States senate for a short term to fill the vacancy caused by the death of D. S. Norton. In 1872 he removed to Duluth, and in 1874 was appointed judge of the Eleventh Judicial district, to which office he was elected in the fall of the same year, which position, by re-election, he still holds. Judge Stearns was married in February, 1863, to Sarah Burger, of Detroit, Michigan.

LAKE COUNTY

This county lies on the north shore of Lake Superior, between the counties of Cook and St. Louis, extending northward to the British line. The whole region is abrupt, broken into hills and valleys, and rich in silver, iron and other metals.

The great Vermillion iron mines of St. Louis county find an outlet through this county by the Duluth & Iron Range railroad, which finds a lake station at Two Harbors. The road was built from Two Harbors to Vermillion lake in 1885, from Two Harbors to Duluth in 1887. The entire road and extensive mines were sold in June, 1887, for $8,000,000, to Porter and others, who are now extending the road from Vermillion lake eastward to Thunder Bay and Port Arthur. It is already completed to Ely, a distance of twenty miles.

Emigration during the years 1886-7 to this county has been very extensive. The two counties, Lake and Cook, have many features in common. They are similar in geological formation, produce the same metals in the same generous abundance, and being in the same latitude, and bordering upon the same lake, differ in no wise in climate and but little in productions. Large quantities of pine timber may be found in these counties, and saw mills are located along the lake shore where an accessible harbor can be found. There are several harbors between Duluth and Thunder Bay that might be improved by the government, greatly to the advantage of the country.

The silver mines of Isle Royal and along the national boundary are extensive, and yield rich returns to the companies working them.